People think some of the best Cantonese food can only be had at a top end seafood restaurant. Their measuring bar is sadly limited to perhaps dim sum, some stir fry random dishes, and wedding banquets as their world to high end, and of course wonton noodle soup, congee, and rice plates and some deli BBQ stuff for the low end. And thus their discussions as to the best dim sum (especially when it comes to comparing between cities) does not have the right benchmark.
Well who can blame them, if they haven't even heard of Andy Wai or even the lesser known Boson Yum, who heads up this almost 2 to 3 year old mini eatery? Mr Yum (yes that's his real name) has an extremely impressive resume, having had multiple cooking gigs in Hong Kong (one going as far back as the late 70s in a place that specialized in rustic cooking), to executive chef at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong plus some gigs in Japan and Indonesia (Chinese food). Never heard of them? How about HK Flower Lounge, ABC Seafood, South China Seafood Village, Fook Yuen? Yep he was executive chef at those places too. He retired some years back, but got bored of not doing what he was extremely passionate about. Family scouted out a place for him, where he is flexing muscles in a more downscale and casual environment, at Yum's Bistro or 知味館. The result? Lower prices for generally high quality execution. He might not have a golf club membership's customer base, but fans in the know go there and make him put on his A game.
Mr Yum is a serious crab and lobster specialist, with the regular menu sporting upwards of 10 different preps each. Want to kind of try Bourdain's experience of "Under the Bridge spicy crab"? Well Yum offers it, but with a slight twist 港式橋底蟹. Pretty darn good, as you get to meet the chef's godly stir fry skills. Want a deep sea fish other than their in house stock of black bass? Well pre-order it, and prices are reasonable. 糯米雞 is a sticky rice stuffed crispy skin unbattered fried chicken that is not to be missed, but requires advanced ordering....dare I say, the best prep in town. Not on the menu, but easily made.... soy sauce king stir fried garlic crab 豉油王蒜蟹, if you want to know what wok hay (wok breath) really means. There is only one main chef doing all the cooking, plus his assistant. So don't come here expecting fast food, but rather a French Laundry-esque pacing if you set expectations accordingly.
Grubbin' on Award Winning Crab.